timing belt
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1998 Audi A4 Quattro
Here is a typical timing belt / water pump job on a 1998 Audi A4 Quattro.
Just to replace the belts, the entire front of the vehicle has to be removed. That's the power of German engineering!
View of the timing belt before the repair
Major oil leaks
Major oil leaks from the camshaft seal
Major coolant leak from the water pump
Oil leak from the crankshaft seal
Bad oil leak from camshaft seal
Leaking radiator
View of the broken radiator
Broken axle boot. Clicking noises on turn
The other axle boot was broken as well
Oil leaks coming from the spark plug wells
Spark plug wells were full of oil due to leaky gaskets
Spark plug wells were full of oil due to leaky gaskets
View of the engine with the old spark plug well seals, after oil leaks were cleaned up. On the left side, the old timing chain tensioner that had to be replaced
View of the engine after replacing the timing chain tensioner
Valve cover and old gasket
New timing chain tensioner on the left and new spark plug well gasket
Close-up of the timing chain tensioner
Oil leaks were cleaned, and new components were installed. Water pump, hydraulic timing belt tensioner
Extremely tight clearance between the belt tensioner and the belt. Another marvel of German engineering!
New belts were installed, along with new tensioners
New timing belt in place
A used radiator provided by the customer was installed Replacing timing belt the proper way
All repair shops deal with the dreaded question: “how much does it cost to change the timing belt on my Audi, VW, Honda, Toyota, Lexus, Saab, Mitsubishi, Hyundai, etc?”
This article is meant to explain the timing belt repair process in detail and help customers take the right decision when it comes to a major repair, even though in the short term it may not be the cheapest. By reading this article and looking at the pictures that are taken from real life examples, you will understand why additional parts need to be replaced, so the job is done right the first time.
Missing teeth on the timing beltAs an import repair shop located in New Orleans Metro area, we have to take time and explain each and every customer that replacing the timing belt is just one part of the job, if you do it the right way.
For domestic cars and Asian cars, after market parts are available and some of them are high quality.
When it comes to European imports, things change. In many cases using aftermarket parts is a nightmare, they do not fit properly, or the quality is not the same. So, even though we like to offer the best quality / price, sometimes using parts from the dealer is not only an option, it’s the only option.
Oil leaks around the front camshaft seals after the timing sprockets were removedOf course everyone has the right to know how much a job costs, in advance. Problems usually start when people take a decision based solely on the lowest price.
For example, replacing just the timing belt on a Honda Civic can cost less than $300, but doing the entire related job can cost 3-4 times more.
So, what happens usually when a customer calls and asks for estimates and suddenly he gets a lower than usual quote?
Case 1: the customer goes straight to the place that offered him the lowest price, happy that he stroke a deal.
Unfortunately, the problems will arise later… Sometimes sooner than later… Here is how they start…
After driving for a while, the customer may notice squealing noises coming from the engine, or leaks (oil or coolant).
The customer starts calling around asking for possible solutions over the phone. Eventually he will bring the car in to have it checked.
Customer: I seem to have an oil leak, just saw some oil on my driveway, or, something is leaking and engine seems to run hot.
After an inspection, the mechanic / service advisor reaches the conclusion that the oil / coolant leak is coming from the timing belt area.
Service advisor: did you change the timing belt as part of the required maintenance?
Customer: yes, I just had it changed a while ago.
Service advisor: did you replace the water pump, the timing component kit and the seals?
Customer: um, say what?
The timing belt pulley was fused to the timing belt due to intense heat
Broken teeth on the timing belt due to seized water pump
Broken bearing on the timing belt tensionerThere you have it. Now, the job has to be done over again. If the customer was lucky, no engine damage occurred, so the work will consist of taking the timing belt off, replacing the leaking water pump, front crankshaft seal and camshaft seals; add the timing component kit, with all the bearings that were squeaking, a new timing belt, because the old one was already contaminated and the price quickly jumps to over $1000, depending on the parts used.
Here, we have to mention that there may be damage that is impossible to be seen until all the parts are taken apart, so the price may go even higher.
What about the first $300? That was money wasted for nothing.
Case 2: after getting different quotes that can vary by (many) hundreds of dollars, the customer, puzzled, starts doing some research and reaches the conclusion that certain shops included additional parts and labor when they quoted the timing belt job. Things like timing component kit, hydraulic tensioner, seals, new start making sense. Then, he does more research online and finds out why the additional parts have to replaced at the same time. Finally, the customer chooses a shop that quoted the entire repair, and the lowest price.
So, what happens with the old saying “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”?
Well, we are not living old times anymore. In the past, manufacturers used to be more generous, the used to design non interference engines, so in case the timing belt broke, you would just change it, nothing got damaged, just the inconvenience of getting stuck while driving.
Nowadays, Honda, Toyota, VW, Saab, Mitsubishi, Hyundai and other manufacturers design interference engines, so, in case the timing belt breaks, the piston will hit the valves, resulting in engine damage.
Even though it can be rebuilt, the cost usually far exceeds the price of a properly done maintenance. The new saying should be more like “you better fix it while it’s running, ’cause when it’s gone it’s gone! ”
Manufacturers set a maintenance interval when the parts should be replaced while still working. Not only mileage, but also time and weather conditions can have an impact on the timing belt replacement interval. It is the manufacturers consider regular vs severe duty.
At Briskers import auto repair in Kenner, we always quote the customers on the entire job, whether they like it or not. Better hate it now than later. In fact, if a customer denies the recommended service, warranty is not provided, and a disclaimer form needs to signed. How can we provide warranty for something that we know it’s not done right? We always emphasize that the quotes include all the parts and labor necessary in order for the vehicle to be trouble free until the next major maintenance, and we list the parts: timing belt component kit, which includes the belt, all the tensioners and idlers, the hydraulic tensioner if applicable, water pump, thermostat, camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, valve cover gasket, if the valve cover has to be removed, spark plugs, if they have to be replaced soon. The radiator and hoses are also inspected.
Major camshaft seal leak
Water pump housing in the block was damaged due to a failed bearing in the water pump
Failed wobbling bearing damaged the water pump and the housing
A broken plastic fitting on the thermostat housing on a 2009 Volvo XC90By doing this repair at once, of course it will me more expensive than replacing just the timing belt itself, but it will be cheaper than replacing the components one at a time, especially if you consider the possibility of parts getting damaged, or even more, broken engines. One may ask, “I understand that you need to replace the timing belt related components, but why do you want to replace my thermostat?”
The answer to that is very simple: we don’t need to replace it, but common sense tells you that you should. Why? Think about it: in order to replace the water pump, the cooling system needs to be drained. You pay for that labor. In order to replace the thermostat, the cooling system needs to be drained again. See where we’re getting? Labor paid twice.
Now, on the other hand, think about the following: you spend all the money and replace the water pump and all the timing belt components. Thermostats wear out too, they usually last around 100k miles, maybe more, maybe less, depending on how clean the cooling system is kept. So, you have all-new parts, except the thermostat. After a while, and long before the next major maintenance, it will fail, getting stuck open or closed. If it’s open, the car will get bad gas mileage, because the engine can’t get to operating temperature, but if it’s stuck closed, you risk to overheat the engine, and destroy it. And it doesn’t take long. Nobody watches the temperature gauge every second, and usually by the time the car shuts down, it’s too late, engine is already damaged. All because of a single part.
Our duty is to inform the customer, to make him aware of what can happen if old parts are not replaced. The following pictures speak for themselves, you can clearly see how neglected certain cars are and the damage that can arise from not doing the maintenance.
If you are in Kenner, Metairie, or New Orleans and need the timing belt replaced for your import car, take the right decision and bring it to Briskers so we can do it right the first time.
Oil leaks in the back of the engine pointing to leaking rear camshaft seals
Major oil leaks from the camshaft seal
Bad oil leak from camshaft seal
Spark plug wells were full of oil due to leaky gaskets 2009 Volvo XC90
Comprehensive set of images showing a typical timing belt replacement job. As you can see, a lot of other parts had to be replaced, either because they or broken, or as part of maintenance. The vehicle had only 85K miles.
Oil leaks around the camshaft actuator
ECU sockets. The control modules has to be removed to gain access to the timing belt
Passenger engine mount had to be unbolted to have better access to the water pump
A broken plastic fitting on the thermostat housing on a 2009 Volvo XC90
Another view of the timing belt area shows the oil and coolant leaks
Oil and coolant leaks in timing belt area.
Closeup of the leaking front camshaft seal
Oil leaks in the back of the engine pointing to leaking rear camshaft seals
New camshaft seals were installed
Closeup of the new front camshaft seal
Valve cover prior to spark plug removal
Engine block was cleaned before installing the new water pump
New water pump and tensioner were installed
New idler pulley
View of the crankshaft after the oil pump was removed
Old paper gasket on the oil pump shows oil leaks
Oil pump was removed, new paper gasket, oring and crankshaft seal were installed
Special tool to hold the camshafts in place
Font crankshaft sprocket with the belt installed
New timing belt was installed
View of the timing belt area after engine was cleaned and new parts were installed
New thermostat housing in the center. Notice the part is made of metal and only the small barb fitting is made of plastic. Guess what will fail first?
Defective master cylinder, pedal sinks to the floor
A used part was supplied by the customer, but it didn't fit. One reason not to buy your own parts
A new master cylinder was installed
Leak from the drive shaft axle seal
Defective drive axle
The defective drive axle
Brake pads were almost gone
Old pad vs new pad
Tie rods had to be replaced, too 2006 Toyota Sienna
A two step repair: 1 – transmission maintenance (fluid, filter), and 2 – timing belt removal in order to replace all the seals.
Old transmission filter
Old transmission filter removed
New transmission filter installed
Clean transmission pan
Broken axle boot. Grease is splashed all around
Broken axle boot. Grease is splashed all around
Broken axle boot. Grease is splashed all around
Broken axle boot. Grease is splashed all around
Old camshaft seals (brown) and crankshaft seal (black)
New OEM seals ready to be installed
Old crankshaft seal was removed and the area around was thoroughly cleaned
Old camshaft seals were removed
New crankshaft seal installed
New camshaft seal installed
New camshaft seal installed
Timing belt, camshaft sprockets, crankshaft sprocket and other parts had to be removed in order to replace the seals
Timing belt is installed
Broken tie rod boot needs to be replaced
Broken tie rod boot needs to be replaced Lexus
Lexus! What more can you say? Japanese reliability! If you own one, you already know that you have a reliable car!
Lexus vehicles, same as Toyota, seem to drive forever! Well, if not forever, at least for a long time, and even better, with less maintenance than their counterparts.
Ideally, required maintenance and preventive maintenance should be done at the mileage recommended by the manufacturer.
However, we live in a less than ideal world, so things can go wrong occasionally and you may be in need of a quality repair without breaking the bank. Fortunately, at Briskers we can help.
We use the same state of the art diagnostic equipment as the dealership and can have your vehicle repaired at a (much) lower price.
Thinking about the quality of the repair? Check out the 5 Star Reviews and see what other customers say about their repair experience. Manufacturer warranty applies, along with a 12000 miles / 1 year labor.
You can browse the Showroom (the list is not exhaustive) and first thing you will notice is that at Briskers we don’t cut corners!
We also provide photo documentation for each repair, a free service that not only shows off the quality of service, but also guarantees the customers they are not charged for unnecessary items.
Call us today at 985-250-0248 or schedule a Service Request and let Briskers take care of the rest!
Upper intake manifold was removed
Valve cover was removed
The other valve cover gasket was removed
Valve cover before cleaning
Clean valve cover with new gasket and spark plug tube seals
Lower intake manifold was cleaned, too. In the back, the new valve cover gasket (blue) can be seen
Valve cover was cleaned and installed
Job completed Old transmission filter New transmission filter installed Old camshaft seals (brown) and crankshaft seal (black) New OEM seals ready to be installed Old crankshaft seal was removed and the area around was thoroughly cleaned New camshaft seal installed New crankshaft seal installed Timing belt is installed
1995 Tercel DX
Customer complaint: none, maintenance required.
Diagnose: oil leaks were spotted all around the engine.
Solution: replace timing belt, reseal the engine.
Work done: timing belt, tensioner and water pump were replaced as part of required maintenance. Additionally, the camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, spark plugs seals, valve cover gasket, oil pump seal, and oil pan gasket had to be replaced due to oil leaks. Drive belts had to be replaced because of cracks and oil contamination. PCV valve and fuel filter were also replaced as preventive maintenance.
A first glance revealed some oil leaks around valve cover.
Here is a closer look.
Another closer look shows a crankshaft seal leak. Notice the oil around the crankshaft pulley.
Here is another angle.
A view from the bottom confirms the crankshaft seal leak.
Here is a side view. Notice the oil splashed around the pulley and the engine.
Oil leaking from the camshaft seal and cap.
Here is another view.
Here is another view. Oil can be seen around.
Here is another view. Oil can be seen around.
After removing the crankshaft pulley, the oil leak is revealed.
New water pump installed.
Oil pan gasket had to come off in order to remove the oil pump.
Here is the oil pump.
A view from the bottom after the oil pan was removed. Oil pickup strainer can be seen in the foreground.
Another view. The crankshaft seal was removed. Notice the oil dipstick with the L and F marks. When you overfill, the crankshaft will "beat" the oil and the pump cannot pick up the frothed oil. This will cause oil starvation and damage the bearings. Always check your oil level after changing it. Most if not all shops will dump in more than necessary!
Camshaft seal and cap were installed. Sealant was applied around.
Here are the old seals and valve cover gasket.
New timing belt in place, engine was cleaned-up, there is no more oil.
A closer view. 2003 Civic LX
Customer complaint: brakes were squeaking and not working properly.
Diagnose: Brake pads were completely worn out. Timing belt needed to be change as part of required maintenance.
Solution: replace rotors, install ceramic brake pads, replace timing belt, water pump and tensioner. One sway bar link was broken and needed to be replaced.
Work done: New high quality rotors with 2 years warranty were installed. Ceramic brake pads were chosen over the regular semi-metallic ones, in order to provide more braking power, less noise and no brake dust. They also have lifetime warranty, so the customer will never pay for another set! Timing belt was replaced, along with the tensioner and water pump. The tensioner mounting screw was stripped due to over tightening by the guys from PepBoys! The thread in the aluminum block needed to be redone and a slightly longer screw was mounted in place. Another example of routine work turning into a nightmare!
Old and new brake pads.
New rotors and ceramic brake pads installed.
Razvan taking off a wheel.
These brake pads were completely worn out!!!
Old timing belt was removed. When should I change my timing belt?
This page will be updated with the official timing belt replacement recommendations by make and model. At this time only a few makes and models are available, but we are currently working on it. Please bookmark this for future reference.
Timing belts can and do fail – usually with little or no warning. The risk of belt failure goes up considerably once a belt surpasses its recommended replacement interval, which is typically 60,000 miles for belts in older vehicles (those built before 1990 to 1998), and 90,000 to 100,000 miles or more for newer vehicles.
Alhough today’s timing belts last longer than before, the same cannot be said for timing belts in older engines – even if the vehicle manufacturer does not publish a recommended replacement interval. Fact is, any belt can fail if the reinforcing cords inside the belt become weak and break.
The internal cords prevent the belt from stretching and jumping time. The cords are under tremendous tension, and eventually the combination of constant flexing and heat causes them to weaken. If the belt is not replaced before total failure occurs, it will fail sooner or later. That is almost a certainty. It may go 60,000, 80,000, 100,000 or even 120,000 miles without a hitch. Or it may not even make it to 60,000 miles depending on operating conditions, load and rpm.
A visual inspection will not tell you much about a timing belt unless it is in a really bad condition. Belts that still look like new on the outside may be dangerously weak on the inside and on the verge of failure. That is why most vehicle manufacturers usually recommend replacing the timing belt at a specific mileage interval (see below).
Regardless of mileage, any timing belt that shows obvious damage such as frayed or exposed cords, damaged teeth, hunks of rubber missing, deep cracks, excessive surface cracking or severe glazing should be replaced without delay! Small surface cracks on the ribbing are considered normal but extensive or deep cracks are not.
Belt replacement is also recommended anytime the cylinder head has to come off of the engine, or when replacing a water pump that is driven by the timing belt. In both cases the belt has to be removed anyway to make the other repairs so there is no extra labor required to replace it.
Many motorists will delay a timing belt replacement because it costs so much. The belt itself may not be that expensive, but the labor to change it might. It is also a very good idea to replace the water pump at the same time if the pump is mounted behind the belt. You do not want to do this job twice, and most water pumps have about the same lifespan as the belt. The total job can easily cost $600 to $800 or more depending on the vehicle. That is a lot of money to most people, but postponing the recommended maintenance can cost them a lot more!
Many motorists may not know timing belts have a limited lifespan and that the vehicle manufacturer lists a recommended replacement interval. Explaining what it might cost to repair an engine with bent valves versus the cost to change the belt now might be all it takes to convince them of the value of preventive maintenance.
The standard aftermarket recommendation for replacing OHC (over head cam) timing belts has traditionally been 60,000 miles – which is still a valid number for most older vehicles. But newer belts last longer and may go 90,000 to 100,000 miles before the risk of failure starts to increase. With Acura and Honda, this means most 1990 and newer models. For Toyota, it is most 1998 and newer models.
According to Gates Rubber Company’s “Timing Belt Replacement Manual,” these are the “official” belt replacement recommendations Acura, Honda and Toyota make for their specific engines.
Note: On applications where no specific mileage recommendation is given, it does not mean the timing belt will last indefinitely and can be ignored. It only means the vehicle manufacturer did not commit to a specific replacement interval and recommends the belt be replaced “as needed.”
Also Note: On Acura and Honda applications with 105,000-mile recommended replacement intervals, this does not include vehicles that are operated in extreme climates (below -20 degrees F or above 110 degrees F). For extreme climate conditions, the replacement interval is reduced to 60,000 miles.
Honda also makes a time recommendation as well as a mileage on the newer applications: 105,000 miles/84 months, or 90,000 miles/72 months depending on the engine.
Acura Timing Belt Replacement Mileage:
1997-98 Integra 1.8L – 105,000 miles
1997-98 NSX, 3.0L & 3.2L – 105,000 miles
1997-98 2.5TL 5-cyl. – 105,000 miles
1997-98 3.0CL V6 – 105,000 miles
1997-98 3.5RL V6 – 105,000 miles
1998 SLX 3.5L – 75,000 miles
1998 2.3CL – 105,000 miles
1996-97 SLX 3.2L V6 – 60,000 miles
1997 2.2CL – 90,000 miles
1995-96 2.5TL 5-cyl. – 90,000 miles
1996 3.2TL – 90,000 miles
1991-96 Integra 1.7L & 1.8L – 90,000 miles
1991-96 NSX 3.0L V6 – 90,000 miles
1991-95 Legend 3.2L V6 – 90,000 miles
1992-94 Vigor 2.5L 5-cyl. – 90,000 miles
1990 Integra 1.8L – 90,000 miles
1990 Legend 2.7L V6 – None
1986-89 Integra 1.6L – None
1986-89 – Legend 2.5L & 2.7L – None
Honda Timing Belt Replacement Mileage:
1994-98 Passport 3.2L V6 – 90,000 miles
1998 Accord 3.0L V6 – 105,000 miles
1998 Accord & Odyssey 2.3L – 105,000 miles
1998 Civic 1.6L – 105,000 miles
1998 CRV 2.0L – 105,000 miles
1998 Prelude 2.2L – 105,000 miles
1995-97 Accord 2.7L V6 – None
1995-97 Odyssey 2.2L – 90,000 miles
1992-97 Prelude 2.2L & 2.3L – 90,000 miles
1990-97 Accord 2.2L – 90,000 miles
1990-97 Civic 1.6L – 90,000 miles
1997 CRV 2.0L – 60,000 miles
1994-96 Passport 2.6L – 90,000 miles
1988-1996 Civic Del Sol 1.6L – 90,000 miles
1990-95 Civic 1.5L – 90,000 miles
1990-91 CRX 1.5L – 90,000 miles
1990-91 Prelude 2.0L & 2.1L – 90,000 miles
1988-1991 Civic & CRX 1.6L – None
1986-89 Accord & Prelude 2.0L – None
1984-89 CRX 1.3L & 1.5L – None
1979-1987 Prelude 1.8L – None
1974-1987 Civic 1.3L – None
1979-1985 Accord 1.8L – None
Toyota Timing Belt Replacement Mileage:
1998 Camry & Celica 2.2L – 90,000 miles
1998 Land Cruiser 4.7L V8 – None
1998 RAV4 2.0L – 90,000 miles
1998 Supra 3.0L – 90,000 miles
1998 Tacoma, T100 & 4Runner 3.4L V6 – 90,000 miles
1998 Tercel 1.5L – 90,000 miles
1996-97 RAV4 2.0L – 60,000 miles
1996-97 4Runner 3.4L V6 – 60,000 miles
1995-97 Avalon 3.0L V6 – 60,000 miles
1995-97 Tacoma, T100 3.4L V6 – 60,000 miles
1995-97 Tercel 1.5L – 60,000 miles
1994-97 Celica 1.8L – 60,000 miles
1993-97 Corolla 1.8L – 60,000 miles
1992-97 Camry 3.0L V6 – 60,000 miles
1992-97 Paseo 1.5L – 60,000 miles
1990-97 Celica 2.2L – 60,000 miles
1988-1997 Corolla 1.6L – 60,000 miles
1986-1997 Supra 3.0L – 60,000 miles
1991-95 MR2 2.0L & 2.2L – 60,000 miles
1988-1995 Pickup & 4Runner 3.0L V6 – 60,000 miles
1993-94 Celica All-Trac 2.0L – 60,000 miles
1993-94 T100 3.0L V6 – 60,000 miles
1988-1994 Tercel 1.5L – 60,000 miles
1986-1994 Celica 2.0L – 60,000 miles
1990-93 Celica 1.6L – 60,000 miles
1989-1992 Cressida 3.0L – 60,000 miles
1988-1991 Camry 2.5L V6 – 60,000 miles
1983-1991 Camry 2.0L – 60,000 miles
1985-89 MR2 1.6L – 60,000 miles
1983-88 Corolla 1.6L – 60,000 miles
1983-88 Cressida 2.8L – 60,000 miles
1984-87 Pickup 2.4L – 60,000 miles
1980-87 Tercel 1.5L – 60,000 miles
1983-86 Camry & Corolla 1.8L – 60,000 miles
Adapted from an article written by Larry Carley for Underhood Service magazine